Method of coat construction



Feb.11,1936. Rm BIASE" 2,030,431-

METHOD OF COAT CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 15, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet l .FJpz'Biase Feb 1936- F. J. D], BIASE METHOD OF COAT CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Aug. 15, 1955 grwcm bo v iase.

Patented Feb. 11, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Application August 15,

3 Claims.

This invention relates to coat constructions and more particularly to an improved method of coat constructions.

An object of this invention is to provide an improved method. for assembling the body of the coat and the collar so as to eliminate any bulge or enlargement at the ends of the collar.

Another object of this invention is to provide an improved method of securing acollar to a garment having a lapel irrespective of the configurations of the collar and the lapel so as to provide a neat joint or connection at the ends of the collar.

A further object of this invention is to provide an improved method of securing a collar to a garment having a lapel, where the collar is initially sewed together and formed and then attached to the garment, the garment preferably being one constructed of relatively cheap material but presenting a finish similar toa garment constructed of higher grade material.

Still another object of this invention is to provide an improved method of attaching a collar to a garment which is such as to reduce the cost of assembling the garment and which is also such as to permit the assembling operation to be made by unskilled workers, while at the same time retaining the appearance of a garment of the better grade.

The above and various other objects and advantages of this invention will in part be described in, and in part be understood from the following detail description of the present preferred embodiment, the same being illustrated in the accompanying drawings wherein:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary rear elevation of the first step in the method of assembling the collar and the body of a garment in accordance with the hereinafter described method.

Figure 2 shows an inside view of the collar with the body of the garment open and shows the second step in the assembling operation.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary side elevation of the H garment showing another step in the assembling operation.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary side elevation of the garment showing an additional step inthe assembling process. 50 Figure 5 is an enlarged sectional view taken. on

the line 5-5 of Figure 1, showing the collar initially tacked at an end to the body of the garment.

Figure 6 is a similar view but showing the material at the point of tacking cut away.

1935, Serial No. 36,423

Figure 7 is an enlarged sectional view taken on theline 'I-'I of Figure 9.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary plan view of the collar.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary front elevation of 5 the garment in completed form.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary front elevation of a modified form of this. invention.

Referring to the drawings wherein like numerals of reference designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, and firstto Figure 1, the numeral I designates generally a facing and the numeral II designates a front which is cut in accordance with a selected pattern. The two fabrics I0 and. I I may be stitched together by means of stitching I3 and a lapel I2 is formedin the usual manner at the ends of the neck portion I4 of the two pieces of material III and II.

In Figure 8, there is disclosed acollar construction which is adapted to be combined with the body of the garment formedby the fabrics I0 and I I and this. collar comprises anouter fabric I5 and a facing or under collar portion I6. At a point closely adjacent each endof the collar, which is generally designated as N, there are provided notches I8 and I9 in the two fabrics I5 and I6.

The first step in the assembling operation of. the body of the garment with the collar is the initial tacking or securing as by stitching of the collar Il to the body of. the garment. This is effected while the front II and the facing ID are in reversed position and then the four pieces of material, that is, the pieces designated ID, II, I5, and I6, are stitched together with a collar H being disposed at its ends betweenv the front- II. and the facing ID. This stitching which is designated 20 extends from the notch 2| at the inner end of the lapel I2 to the notches I8I9 in the collar, the body of the garment being also notched at a point a short distance away from the notch 2 I, as at 22.

When the ends of the collar I! are tacked onto the body of the garment by the tacking 20 which engages through the four pieces of material for a relatively short distance along the length of the collar, the front I I is stitched to the outer collar piece I5, as by stitching 23, which extends from one point of tacking to the other or entirely across the neck portion of the garment. The facing II] is then stitched as by stitching 24 to the under collar member I6 in the same manner as the outer collar member I5, namely from one point of tacking to the other so that the collar I1 is sewed to the body of the garment with the two collar portions sewed separately to the two body 55 portions with the exception of the ends of the collar which are tacked as by the stitching 20 to both sections of the body.

After the collar has been firmly secured to the body of the garment, a line of stitching is placed along the lapel l2 and extends parallel with the tacking 20 to substantially the stitching 23 and 24, as shown in Figure 3, this line of stitching being used for the purpose of straightening the upper edge of the lapel l2. ment has been sewed by the stitching 25, that portion of the body of the garment end of the collar between the ends of the collar and the notches I8|9 and the notch 22 is removed, as shown in Figure 4, the material being cut relatively close to the tacking 20 and to. the par allel stitching 25 at this point.

The garment with the collar attached thereto may then be turned right side out and the seams connecting the collar with the body on. both the front portions and the facings' may then be pressed down or felled and the front member I I and the facing or inner member ID then connected together by stitching passing through the felled portion 26 of the front II, as shown in Figure 7. In this manner, the front and facing portions of the garment are sewed together with the front portions of each part thereof and the facing portions of each part thereof separately connected together. After the garment has been turned right side out, the lapel may be basted or stitched along the marginal portions thereof inwardly of the stitching 13 so that the entire garment will present a neat appearance and so that the seams will not separate under varying strains to which they may be subjected.

The method hereinbefore described by which the collar is attached to the body of the garment has been in use for a period of time and in addition to providing a neat appearing garment of the cheaper grade, the method also has the effect of reducing the manufacturing cost for each garment while at the same time permitting the use of inexperienced workers in the manufacture of the garment.

I do not wish to be limited to the particular configuration of the garment herein disclosed as it is obvious that the garment may be of any desired style having a lapel thereon and that this garment may be of a type used for children or adults of either sex.

This method of manufacturing the garment eliminates the necessity for basting the collar onto the body of the garment in addition to eliminating any bulge or puckering between the After the garcollar and the body of the garment, the bulge being usually at the ends of the collar in garments of the cheaper grade.

In Figure 10 there is shown another method of securing the collar to the coat body wherein the top collar I5 is tacked, as by tacking 20', between the front II and the facing ID. This form of construction is for the better types of garments and in this construction the under collar H has the raw lower edge thereof felled, as by stitching 21, to the facing Ill. In other words, the top collar I5 is the only piece of material which is tacked between the front II and. the facing l0 andthe top collar I5 is stitched as by stitching 23' after the manner of the stitching 23. This felling 21 may be done either by hand or by a suitable machine employing the fell stitch.

I claim:-

1. The method of coat construction which comprises initially forming a collar of at least two pieces of material and stitching three sides of the material together, initially stitching the front and facing of the coat body together with the neck portions of the front and facing free,

tacking the ends of the collar through the front and facing of the coat body with a single line of stitching, stitching the balance of one portion of the collar to the facing and stitching the balance of the other portion of the collar to the 1 front of the coat.

2. The method of coat construction which comprises tacking a portion of each end of the collar to the body of the coat between the reversed front and reversed facing of the coat body, stitching the remaining portion of the collar to the body and cutting off that portion of the collar outwardly of the tacking for substantially the full length of the tacking.

3, The method of coat construction which comprises initially forming the collar and coat body of at least two plies of material, notching the collar adjacent each end at a point inwardly of the ends, tacking that portion of both plies of the collar between the two plies of the coat body for the length of the collar from the end to the notch, stitching the remaining portion of the collar to the coat body, stitching the coat body along the lapel thereof and into the body parallel with the tacking for substantially the length of the tacking and then cutting off that portion of the body and the collar outwardly of the tacking between the notch and the adjacent end of the collar.

FRANK J. DI BIASE. 

